St Tropez beaches ·

02 Jun 2024, 00:00

The best beaches in St Tropez, from the private beach clubs of Pampelonne to lesser-known beaches nearer town, by our expert, Anthony Peregrine.

Pampelonne beach

This is the beach that has fuelled St Tropez’s fame since 1955. In high summer, it might welcome some 30,000 people a day. The three-mile stretch first came to 20th-century prominence as a key site of the Allied landings in August 1944. Subsequent landings by the great, the rich, the debauched and simply anonymous sun-seekers have been scarcely less hectic.

They do not, on the other hand, delight ecologically minded local authorities who reckon the premises are illegally installed and wrecking the balance of the coast. In 2012, after years of legal confrontation, they shut down and demolished one of the most notorious: the Voile Rouge. They want to sweep others away, reducing the number of beach establishments from 27 to 23, moving them back from the beach behind protective dunes - and ensuring that they are made from materials allowing them to be taken down in winter. Obviously, the owners are resisting – they argue that a worldwide reputation, 800 jobs and a €40 million annual turnover are at stake.

This is the beach that has fuelled St Tropez’s fame since 1955 Credit: This content is subject to copyright./M & G Therin-Weise / robertharding

The local authorities, they say, know nothing of tourism. The conflict staggers on, from public inquiry to court-room and back, via the media. One real fear is that the commotion will let in international financial interests at the expense of local families who established the clubs and still run them. In the latest moves, in summer 2017, the authorities have said that beach restaurants have until autumn 2018 to comply with a ruling that commercial activity should take up no more than 20% of the beach (as opposed to 30% now). However, that decision is in doubt, given President Macron's desire to make the rules and regs more supple and tourist-friendly.

Following the terrorist attack on Nice in 2016, it is argued that the Riviera really doesn't want to be taking action that penalises those serving visitors. The region needs tourists to return, big-time. The argument rages on. Be sympathetic or you’ll never get served.

Plages La Glaye, La Ponche and de la Fontanette

These are the three small-to-tiny beaches fronting the oldest part of St Tropez village. I doubt you'll want to spend all day on any of them, but they're delightful for a dip and an hour or two's relaxation.

Plage de la Bouillabaisse

On the road out of the village, beyond the port and car park. It's not a beach of enormous beauty, but it's easy to get to, the views across the bay to the Maures mountains are splendid and there's generally less of a scrum here.

Plus there's a handful of good beach club-bar-restaurants. Pick of the bunch may be the Pearl Beach (00 33 498 12 70 70; thepearlbeach.com), a coolly sophisticated top-end spot of teak decking, sculpted wood and Orient-meets-Med atmosphere. There is, of course, a spa. None of this comes cheap. Think €40+ for a two-course lunch, €70 for a three-course dinner.

Plage des Graniers

A short walk out of the village along the Sentier du Littoral. Enfolded in wooded hills, the beach is charming, free and has a decent little restaurant - La Plage des Graniers - for a grilled fish lunch (00 33 494 97 38 50).

Plage des Salins

The last beach before Pampelonne. Indeed, some people erroneously include it as part of Pampelonne. It isn't. It's a wilder and more tranquil creek accessible by the Sentier du Littoral, if you can manage a walk of something over two hours. Or by road, along the Route des Salins from the village. The restaurant here - La Plage des Salins - is a belter, its feet in the water, its mind on fish and other Provençal dishes. And it now boasts a pizzeria on its upper floor (00 33 494 97 15 66; lessalins.com).

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The Pampelonne beach clubs

Club 55

Probably the classiest and most discreet, with the choicest clientele of world politicians, Russian and Middle Eastern businessmen and, of course, Kate Moss. Sir Elton also shows up amidst the tamarisk trees. Elle MacPherson and Paris Hilton were among those spotted here recently.

club55

A post shared by Le Club 55 Officiel (@leclub55officiel) on Jun 28, 2016 at 12:20am PDT

The simplest possible cabin in the early 1950s, Club 55 was adopted as their canteen by the people making And God Created Woman - the Bardot movie that put St Tropez on the world stage in 1955, hence the club's name. It has never lost its appeal among the beautiful, the powerful and the clever. To have any chance of a summer table, book ahead - and don't be surprised to be rather squashed in, even so. Be prepared, also, to pay extraordinary amounts of money for some pretty humble catering: with a tomato and goat's cheese salad at €22, you're unlikely to get out at much under €100/head.

Contact: 00 33 494 55 55 55; leclub55.com

Tahiti Beach

The oldest beach club (est 1946) fronts a hotel of the same name and appeals to more mature types, in an exclusive sort of way. You can't miss it. It's right at the northern end of Pampelonne and distinguished by bright orange parasols laid out on the sands in military formation. Alongside a good gastronomic restaurant, it offers two bars, a pizzeria and self-sevice eatery.

You can't miss this club, it's right at the northern end of Pampelonne and distinguished by bright orange parasols

Contact: 00 33 494 97 18 02; tahiti-beach.com

Les Jumeaux

A good choice for kids, not least because they have a playground with games available, and a decent children's lunch menu (from €11).

A very popular choice for families with children, there's a playground and a decent children's lunch menu

Otherwise, there's a swish of Parisian chic about the place - plus a taste for installation art right on the beach. Les Jumeaux is also one of the rare beach restaurants open for lunch all year round. Think €28 for full-meal salads, €26 for a burger and €18 for a two-course kid's lunch.

Contact: 00 33 608 078638; plagedesjumeaux.com

Nioulargo - Kai Largo

Notable for two particularly good restaurants - one serving Italo-Med fare, the other Indochinese dishes. There's also a snack-bar counter. The surroundings are exotically sophisticated, favouring night-time fiestas.

Notable for two particularly good restaurants - one serving Italo-Med fare, the other Indochinese dishes

Contact: 00 33 498 12 63 12; nioulargo.fr

Moorea

Here's a jolly, lively spot which doesn't take itself quite as seriously as do some of the others. High (almost kitschily) coloured, it's been in the business of providing good times - at the lower end of the Pampelonne price spectrum - for years. Rod Stewart, Hugh Grant and Joan Collins are among those who have appreciated it, particularly, the legendary Claudy's bar.

Here's a jolly, lively spot which doesn't take itself quite as seriously as do some of the others

Contact: 00 33 494 97 81 58; mooreaplage.fr

Shellona

The old, admired Aqua Club has died, to be replaced by this smashing Greek-themed restaurant in the hands of chef Yiannis Kioroglou. It's not cheap - mains from around €38 - but the mezze sharing plates are a blast and the atmosphere is everything you require for a tropezien afternoon. I'd not hesitate.

Contact: 00 33 494 79 84 35; shellonabeach.com

La Cabane Bambou

Down at the more casual southern end of the beach, La Cabane has the air of a desert island corrected for the comfort-seeking classes. The ambience is retro, fittingly perhaps for a spot which started in 1967 as a beer hut for French soldiers on manoeuvres.

Down at the more casual southern end of the beach, La Cabane has the air of a desert island corrected for the comfort-seeking classes

The huts are fun, the welcome friendly and the restaurant expensive, but not madly so by St Tropez standards: sea bass at €32, veal cutlets milanese €28. Massages may be ordered if your holiday is proving stressful, though the belting mojitos might prove just as effective.

Contact: 00 33 494 79 84 13; cabanebambouplage.com